A storm door at your home's entrance will add curb appeal and improve weatherproofing. A door cuts down on drafts and heat loss during winter, and offers ventilation when the weather's more pleasant. Installing a storm door can also protect the finish of expensive wooden entrance doors, plus a door with its own lock means added security.
Installing a new storm door yourself can save a hundred dollars or so, and it's a task that fits the skill set of most weekend DIYers. The job requires tools you'll find in most basic tool kits and, whether the house dates to 1905 or 2005, the steps are the same. Door manufacturers make the job easier for a consumer by including detailed instructions. Many companies also provide on-line forums, toll-free advice or both.
2) Measure the door opening according to the instructions The opening may not be quite square if your house is older, so take multiple measurements to find the opening's smallest width and height. Measure the two diagonals (corner to opposite corner), too. Record all your measurements on a sketch of the opening.
3) Determine which side of your door should be hinged and which will have a handle. The storm door's handle will be on the same side as the handle of the entry door. Plot the handle' location on your sketch as viewed from the outside, and take the sketch along to the store when picking out your door.
4) Buy or order the new door. Stores often stock many doors in standard sizes, usually approximately 84" tall and 36" wide. Openings 32" wide are common for houses' back doors. Any door that's taller or wider must usually be custom-ordered. You can expect delivery to take from two weeks to a month.
8) Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install the door. The usual order is to install frame parts at the top and latch sides first. Next, you'll attach the hinge side frame to the door and mount the assembly on the wall. This step may require the help of an assistant to steady the door in place while you mount the frame to the brick molding.
9) Install the weatherstripping, latch hardware, bottom sweep and closer(s). Full-light doors (a single, large sheet of glass) often have closers at both top and bottom. Follow the instructions to adjust the mechanism so the door closes properly. 10) Test the latch and the operation of windows, if present, and adjust where needed.
Seal the frame to the brick molding with a bead of weatherproof caulk. Make certain the top and both sides are sealed completely to prevent moisture from being trapped between the wooden molding and the frame. If necessary, touch up the paint or repaint the molding entirely.
If the brick molding is deteriorated or damaged, you should replace it before installing a new door.
Installing a new storm door yourself can save a hundred dollars or so, and it's a task that fits the skill set of most weekend DIYers. The job requires tools you'll find in most basic tool kits and, whether the house dates to 1905 or 2005, the steps are the same. Door manufacturers make the job easier for a consumer by including detailed instructions. Many companies also provide on-line forums, toll-free advice or both.
Tools You'll Need• Measuring tape• Drill and drill bits • Carpenter’s (spirit) level • Screwdrivers • Stepladder • Putty knife or scraper (optional) • Caulk and caulking gun (optional) |
Installation, Step by Step
Prepare
1) Visit your local hardware store or lumberyard to choose a door of the style, finish, and design to fit your budget and needs. All manufacturers supply instructions to measure the space the new door will fill; find a set of the instructions to take home with you.2) Measure the door opening according to the instructions The opening may not be quite square if your house is older, so take multiple measurements to find the opening's smallest width and height. Measure the two diagonals (corner to opposite corner), too. Record all your measurements on a sketch of the opening.
3) Determine which side of your door should be hinged and which will have a handle. The storm door's handle will be on the same side as the handle of the entry door. Plot the handle' location on your sketch as viewed from the outside, and take the sketch along to the store when picking out your door.
4) Buy or order the new door. Stores often stock many doors in standard sizes, usually approximately 84" tall and 36" wide. Openings 32" wide are common for houses' back doors. Any door that's taller or wider must usually be custom-ordered. You can expect delivery to take from two weeks to a month.
Install
| 5) Remove the existing door if necessary. Remove the closer and retention chain, then remove the frame. Most door frames are attached to the molding surrounding the entryway with screws; extract them and lift off the door and frame. If the door was installed correctly there will caulk around the door frame; remove it with a scraper or putty knife. 6) Unpack your new door and read through the instructions. Verify that all the parts are present and undamaged. 7) Test the frame parts to check for fit. Storm doors have adjustable parts that are designed to fit a range of sizes. Verify that the opening is in the door's range. |
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| Sample image from the instructions for a Larson door. |
9) Install the weatherstripping, latch hardware, bottom sweep and closer(s). Full-light doors (a single, large sheet of glass) often have closers at both top and bottom. Follow the instructions to adjust the mechanism so the door closes properly. 10) Test the latch and the operation of windows, if present, and adjust where needed.
Seal the frame to the brick molding with a bead of weatherproof caulk. Make certain the top and both sides are sealed completely to prevent moisture from being trapped between the wooden molding and the frame. If necessary, touch up the paint or repaint the molding entirely.
If the brick molding is deteriorated or damaged, you should replace it before installing a new door.
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