Your standard maintenance and spring cleaning should include washing your home’s windows, inside and out. Once you’ve compared a clean window and a dirty one side-by-side, you’ll see why. At the same time, it’s a good idea to check the window screens and repair any that have developed holes since your last window-cleaning session.
Replacement screen wide enough to fit the opening
Two pieces of scrap wood a couple of feet long
Two clamps
Small screwdriver or needlenose pliers
Scissors
Screen tool
Utility knife
I use a scrap of sheet goods like plywood or the OSB shown in the pictures, though a tabletop or other flat surface will suffice. You want it large enough that the screen’s frame is supported completely. I use scraps of wood and a couple of clamps to hold the screen in place – this prevents it from deforming when you’re fixing the new mesh in place and keeps it from sliding around as you're working
The mesh is held in its frame by a length of rubber or vinyl spline. Look at the corners of the frame to find the end of the length of spine, and pry it out of its channel with the tip of a small screwdriver or a pair of needlenose pliers. Grab the loose end and pull the spline out of its channel – it’s usually a single piece that runs all the way around. Set it aside to reuse it.
You should be able to pull the old screen mesh out of the frame with the spline gone. If you can’t get a grip, just cut it with your utility knife and peel it out by the loose edges, taking care to keep track of the little tab(s). Now would be a good time to clean the frame if it’s grungy.
Unroll your replacement screen and cut a new piece that’s larger than the frame by an inch or more in both dimensions. Fiberglass screen can be cut with ordinary scissors. Lay the screen over the opening so that it overlaps the frame on all sides.
One end of your new screen tool has a solid wheel; the other end has a notched wheel. Use the solid wheel to force the screen into the channel molded into the frame. Make certain that the other sides continue to overlap the frame. Push one end of the spline into the channel. Use the notched wheel end of the screen tool to force the spline into the channel. Use your other hand to hold the screen taut so it doesn’t buckle and stays in position.
When you get to a corner, repeat the above step. Simply wrap the spline around the corner into the channel on the next side of the frame. Continue to keep the screen taut as you go around the corners. Be sure to put the tab(s) back into the channel on the bottom of the screen – there should be springs at the top, so put it on the other end. The tabs go on the inside of the frame, and the spline goes on the outside, so the tabs should be on the other side of the screen as you work.
When you get to the end, there will probably be a little leftover spline because of stretching. Use a utility knife to cut it short. Go all the way around the frame again with the screen tool to make certain the spline is secure. Pay particular attention to the spline where it crosses the tabs, since this is a stress point.
Run the tip of a utility knife around the frame on the outside of the spline. It usually works pretty well to just lay the handle on the screen and slide the knife along. If the knife blade’s relatively new, it will go through fiberglass screen like a hit knife through butter.
Put the screen back in the window: you’re done!
I always wrap leftover screen with a rubber band and put it back in the plastic bag for the next time – and there will be a next time. The stuff will keep indefinitely, but is likely to snag in storage if unprotected.
Note 1: If the spline crumbles or breaks apart, you can buy replacement where you pick up the replacement screen. It comes in different sizes: the larger size (0.25 inches) is for sliding patio door screens, while the smaller size (0.155 inches) is for regular screens.
Note 2: If the frame is damaged, it’s not that difficult to build your own replacement frame. You’ll find frame parts in the same area as the screen and spline.
(all photographs by author)
You could take a damaged screen to the local hardware store to have it repaired – at a pretty impressive cost, I might add – or you could do it yourself with some basic tools. For modern metal-framed screens, you only need one specialized tool – cleverly called a “screen tool” – and chances are good that it’ll cost less than five bucks. Replacement screen is available at the local BigBox store in both fiberglass and aluminum varieties, as well as different colors. Once you’ve removed a screen from the window, replacing the mesh should take only a few minutes for fiberglass screen, though significantly longer if you use metal mesh. |
Here’s what you’ll need
Replacement screen wide enough to fit the opening
Two pieces of scrap wood a couple of feet long
Two clamps
Small screwdriver or needlenose pliers
Scissors
Screen tool
Utility knife
Secure the screen to the work space
I use a scrap of sheet goods like plywood or the OSB shown in the pictures, though a tabletop or other flat surface will suffice. You want it large enough that the screen’s frame is supported completely. I use scraps of wood and a couple of clamps to hold the screen in place – this prevents it from deforming when you’re fixing the new mesh in place and keeps it from sliding around as you're working
Remove the rubber spline
The mesh is held in its frame by a length of rubber or vinyl spline. Look at the corners of the frame to find the end of the length of spine, and pry it out of its channel with the tip of a small screwdriver or a pair of needlenose pliers. Grab the loose end and pull the spline out of its channel – it’s usually a single piece that runs all the way around. Set it aside to reuse it.
Remove the old mesh
You should be able to pull the old screen mesh out of the frame with the spline gone. If you can’t get a grip, just cut it with your utility knife and peel it out by the loose edges, taking care to keep track of the little tab(s). Now would be a good time to clean the frame if it’s grungy.
Cut new mesh to size
Unroll your replacement screen and cut a new piece that’s larger than the frame by an inch or more in both dimensions. Fiberglass screen can be cut with ordinary scissors. Lay the screen over the opening so that it overlaps the frame on all sides.
Insert the screen and spline
One end of your new screen tool has a solid wheel; the other end has a notched wheel. Use the solid wheel to force the screen into the channel molded into the frame. Make certain that the other sides continue to overlap the frame. Push one end of the spline into the channel. Use the notched wheel end of the screen tool to force the spline into the channel. Use your other hand to hold the screen taut so it doesn’t buckle and stays in position.
When you get to a corner, repeat the above step. Simply wrap the spline around the corner into the channel on the next side of the frame. Continue to keep the screen taut as you go around the corners. Be sure to put the tab(s) back into the channel on the bottom of the screen – there should be springs at the top, so put it on the other end. The tabs go on the inside of the frame, and the spline goes on the outside, so the tabs should be on the other side of the screen as you work.
When you get to the end, there will probably be a little leftover spline because of stretching. Use a utility knife to cut it short. Go all the way around the frame again with the screen tool to make certain the spline is secure. Pay particular attention to the spline where it crosses the tabs, since this is a stress point.
Trim off excess screen
Run the tip of a utility knife around the frame on the outside of the spline. It usually works pretty well to just lay the handle on the screen and slide the knife along. If the knife blade’s relatively new, it will go through fiberglass screen like a hit knife through butter.
Put the screen back in the window: you’re done!
I always wrap leftover screen with a rubber band and put it back in the plastic bag for the next time – and there will be a next time. The stuff will keep indefinitely, but is likely to snag in storage if unprotected.
Note 1: If the spline crumbles or breaks apart, you can buy replacement where you pick up the replacement screen. It comes in different sizes: the larger size (0.25 inches) is for sliding patio door screens, while the smaller size (0.155 inches) is for regular screens.
Note 2: If the frame is damaged, it’s not that difficult to build your own replacement frame. You’ll find frame parts in the same area as the screen and spline.
(all photographs by author)
No comments:
Post a Comment