Oil or Latex? How to Test an Unknown Paint

Read through almost any website or magazine aimed at the do-it-yourselfer, and you’re almost certain to find someone gushing that a fresh coat of paint can completely change the look of your room, house, cabinets, furniture… just about anything but the family minivan. Come to think of it, there’s probably a website somewhere with instructions on how to update the look of your wheels with a fresh coat of paint.

If you haven’t figured it out by now, you need to know that there are two basic kinds of paint – whether you’re going to paint your walls, your siding, or that old dresser you picked up at a yard sale. The two kinds are latex and oil-based, and sometimes they just don’t play well together.

While it’s possible to paint over oil paint with latex and vice versa, doing so could require additional prep work or even adding a coat of primer. It’s usually easier to just match the paint composition to what’s already there. If you need to buy paint for touch-ups or to repaint some trim, it’s almost essential to match oil to oil and latex to latex. If you’re not the original painter, though, how do you tell? Believe it or not, it’s actually pretty easy. 

Getting Rid of Cable: Is it Time to Cut the Cord?

News out in recent days suggest that the power in the world of television could finally be shifting to the consumer instead of the cable giants. Both HBO and CBS recently announced that they will soon initiate their own streaming services, joining companies like Hulu and Netflix as go-to sources for media in the era of cord-cutting. It's possible - just possible - that á la carte television is just over the horizon - and it's not a moment too soon!

For decades, cable giants like Comcast and AT&T and satellite services like DirecTV have controlled non-broadcast television. Instead of allowing consumers to buy only what they want to watch, they've lumped all kinds of dross in with the good stuff to create "packages." Almost everyone who buys these services knows the syndrome well. If you want to watch the History Channel, you have to buy the package that includes the Golf Channel. Want to watch Nickelodeon? You also have to pay for Bravo. You're stuck buying a whole smorgasbord just to get the few dishes you want. 

That’s so 2004! Is it time for you to cut the cord? Here's how.

Bicycle Maintenance 101: Changing a Flat Tire on Your Bike

It only takes one flat tire ten miles from home to convince the newbie cyclist to carry the tools and supplies necessary to fix that flat while out on the road. The repair kit’s fairly simple: for ordinary rides, you only need to carry a replacement tube, tire levers and a pump. If a cross-country trip will take you miles from the nearest bike shop, toss more tubes, a patch kit and a foldup tire or two in the panniers or trailer. In either case, carrying a couple of paper towels is a good idea.

The Fix-a-Flat Kit

(1) a tire pump or a CO2 inflation kit
(2) a replacement tube of the proper size
(3) tire levers

It's also a good idea to carry a sheet or two of paper towel and perhaps an emergency tire patch kit

Fuel Economy Calculation and Conversion

Calculate Miles per Gallon

I already put together a little post on how to calculate your fuel economy in miles per gallon (MPG), but not everyone is interested in that particular measurement. That's 'cause there are only a few countries who use the imperial system of measurement (feet, quarts, miles and gallons), so the phrase "miles per gallon" doesn't mean much to people who live outside the USA. 

Calculate Liters per 100 km

In most of the countries that use the metric system, people share their fuel economy with a number called l/100km, or liters per 100 kilometers instead of the MPG so familiar to people in the States. You just need two numbers to calculate l/100km, though the division is a little different from what you're used to.

Bicycle Maintenance 201: How to Change Your Chain

Why change what seems to be a perfectly good chain?

The answer’s actually simple: chains wear out and even break. That wouldn’t be a problem except that “wearing out” means a chain gets longer. Here’s why: 

The anatomy of a chain.

When a chain's new, the spaces between the rollers exactly match the spaces on your chainwheels and cogs (what most call front and rear “gears,” respectively). As the chain wears, the pins connecting the links (hidden inside the rollers) wear down and allow the chain to get slightly longer. This, in turn, grinds away at the teeth on the cogs, which changes the length of their spaces. If you have to install a new chain because the old one broke or a link froze up, the spaces will no longer match. That makes the new chain skip on the cog, and can wear out the chain faster than it should. Worst-case scenario, you may need a new cogset, which costs about three times as much as a new chain (and requires special tools to install). You probably don’t want that.

Repair a Hole in Drywall

Although it’s far more easily installed than plaster, a surface sheathed in drywall (also known as sheetrock, wallboard, and plasterboard) tends to be softer and more damage-prone than one built up with plaster. The damage ranges from the small dents and scrapes caused by doors or furniture to major holes. Though it's unsightly, damage like this can typically be repaired by competent homeowners with the right tools and sufficient patience. Here’s a rough outline of how to patch drywall.

Evaluate the Damage

Determine the extent of the damage. Holes in walls can be of any size, but generally fall into a simple classification. The smallest class is the punctures made by nails or other picture hangers; next come those dents and scratches that don't break the surface. The third class is small holes that crack the wallboard and tear the paper - Many of these, for unknown reasons, seem to be fist-sized. Last comes large holes that might be caused by falling objects or trapped pets. You'll need to approach repair with different techniques and tools depending on the size of the hole.

Assemble Your Tools

Whatever the size of the hole, you’ll eventually use a putty knife or wallboard knife. Wallboard knives are made in widths of about 6-12 inches; for large holes you may need two or three sizes. No wallboard repair can be made without at least some joint compound. Although your college dorm roommate repaired nail holes with white toothpaste, a small container of joint compound or latex spackle actually costs less than that tube of toothpaste. Collect an assortment of different grits of closed-coat sandpaper. To repair a large hole you’ll need additional tools like a ruler, a wallboard saw, and something to use as a patch.

Easy Do-it-Yourself Display Case for Models

When the Ms returned from a memorial service for her late father, she brought a dozen or so collectible models of Standard Oil trucks - not worth much in terms of cash (about $3.50 each on eBay) but full of sentimental value. She also had a little display case for Matchbox cars, but the trucks were too big for its little shelves. Thus came the request,. "Can you make something...?" Making the body of a case like this was no problem. Oh, sure, there was the usual question about making the joints: mitered, box, dovetail, butt… But, the overall dimensions and the general design were pretty much set in stone, including the desire for a hinged front that had to be mostly clear glass. I don't know about you, but I find making a frame for a glass door to be a major pain in the butt. So I decided to let someone else make it…

One Simple Trick

An ordinary picture frame (from
the Michaels website)

Yep, you guessed it, I stopped by my local craft store and bought a simple black wood picture frame. That became my ready-made face, including glass (and glazing points). All that was left was to measure the frame's outside dimensions and design a multiple-shelf display box to fit behind it. I bought six feet of 1 x 3 poplar and a quarter sheet of ¼-inch birch plywood. With a couple hours' work with the table saw and router and I had a case. I cut my shelves and back from the plywood and painted them black, like the picture frame. The poplar I stained with some leftover wood stain I had in the shop.

When and How to Test your Car's Thermostat

Most gasoline and diesel engines include a water-based cooling system to remove excess heat caused by combustion. A coolant circulating through the walls of the engine picks up heat and carries it into the fins of a radiator where moving air helps dissipate the heat.

Cooling systems are simple compared to engines. They include the water jacket, a network of passages though the engine block; the radiator and cap; a fan; a water pump; hoses and the thermostat. Though it's a mechanically simple device, the thermostat serves an important function, regulating the temperature of coolant and engine.

How a Thermostat Works

A typical thermostat. 

A thermostat sits across the opening where coolant enters the block. When the engine is cold, the thermostat closes off the opening to keep water isolated in the block. As the engine begins to generates heat. The thermostat remains closed until coolant inside the block reaches the operating temperature at which the engine performs its best. Then the thermostat opens to allow circulation of coolant from the remainder of the system. It opens wider as the coolant temperature increases: the more coolant that passes through the block and the radiator, the more effectively the system removes unwanted heat. When operating temperatures change, the thermostat can adjust to maintain the coolant's temperature within a narrow set range.

How Thermostats Fail

When it reaches the end of its useful life, a thermostat usually sticks in the open position, allowing coolant to circulate through the system continually. When this happens, an engine is unlikely to reach its optimum operating temperature, which both increases wear and erodes fuel economy. In cold weather the heater, which is in most cars part of the cooling system, will function poorly or not work at all. More rarely, the thermostat will get stuck in its closed position. In this case, coolant in the system won’t circulate through the engine block, causing the engine to overheat.

Track Down an Electrical Circuit on a Breaker Panel

Remember the last time you did electrical work around the house? Maybe you installed a ceiling fan, put up a new security light, swapped in a dimmer switch for a toggle, or perhaps you tackled a more ambitious project like adding a new fixture. I can pretty well guarantee the first line in the instruction sheet said words like: 

"Turn off the power to the circuit before starting." 

Oh, sure. That's easy for the engineer who designed your new toy to say: he's probably posted a blueprint on the inside of the door of his breaker box; a tiny map showing the location of every fixture, switch and outlet in the house, everything carefully labeled with the number of its circuit breaker. If you're like everyone else, though, the breaker box is probably labeled with cryptic little notes like "mr bth ot," "dck lts," or "sara's bdrm" - and the only Sara you know is the intern at work.  If you're really unlucky, the breaker isn't labeled at all. 

Remove Sag from a Gate

The toughest part of building a fence is almost always the gate. Adding a gate means additional posts and dealing with the hardware, and they usually require finicky measurements and additional planning. Worst of all, about forty-five minutes after you install them the darned things start to sag and warp. Well, at least my gates do.

The gate in the Houston house's back yard became unhinged during Hurricane Ike a few weeks before we moved in, and the previous owner did such a lousy repair job that I had to replace his replacement within a couple of years. The replacement gate fit fine and I did a good enough construction job that it doesn't sag, but the BigBox lumber I used to build it began to warp seemingly within minutes, causing a serious case of gaposis near the top. I decided that a set of eye bolts, some cable and a turnbuckle would straighten it out, so I returned to my local BigBox store where I'd bought the lumber (blue, not orange). There on the hardware aisle I found a National Zinc Anti-Sag Gate Kit (V-852) and brought it home.

Patch Holes in Subfloor (or Drywall)

As much as we adore our furry friends, sometimes  they make a mess. One of the biggest messes any of our dogs ever made was the time she knocked over a lit floor lamp, which somehow managed to stay lit instead of shattering. It took some time, but the 150-watt bulb melted clear through the carpet and pad, eventually charring a perfectly circular three-inch hole in the subflooring of our upstairs. We came home to a house filled with smoke and a two Labradors cowering in the back yard – no flames, though, so no visit from the fire department.

So… how do you patch a hole in the floor? Well, here’s how I did it…

Unstick Stuck Windows

Old houses are special for their charm and character, but they also have special problems. An annoyance regularly encountered by people who buy or rent in old buildings is the stuck window. These windows stick closed for several reasons, but one common reason is that they've been painted shut. If you've found yourself battling stuck windows, here's some help to get fresh air back in your life.

Window Anatomy

Windows with panels that move up and down are called "sash windows." The panels, or sashes, move in channels that keep them from falling into the room or the back yard. The lower sash is held in place by thin strips of molding on either side called the inner stops.

Some sash windows are single-hung, meaning only the bottom sash moves. This is more common in houses with central air-conditioning. Older houses are more likely to have double-hung windows, where both top and bottom sashes move. If your top sash doesn't move, look at the inside of the frame: if there isn't a channel or groove to let the window slide, it isn't moving because it isn't supposed to. If there's a channel, you'll find two more molding strips that separate the channels for the sashes. These are called parting strips.

Many sashes are been frozen in place by paint that fills the spaces between the sashes and the molding. It's fairly easy to remove this paint if there aren't too many layers.

Replace Valve Packing in a Hose Bibb

Next to replacing the toilet flapper doohickey, the leaky faucet is probably the most common household plumbing repair. Kitchen and bathroom faucets come in an astonishing selection of styles and a bewildering array of valve types, but once you've gone through the repair process once (or twice), shutting down a leak with a new washer or a cartridge rebuild is actually pretty easy. That's for indoor faucets, however: those tough, utilitarian outdoor faucets (actual names, hose bibs or bibbs) are different, however. When one of them leaks, it may not be a worn-out washer: it might be the valve packing.

"The what?" you may ask.

Valve Packing

A hose bibb consists of a simple valve, usually brass, that screws into a molded metal body. To prevent leakage around the valve stem, bibbs are designed so that soft, waterproof material seals against the stem. This is what's called valve packing. When packing wears out, which it eventually does, the bibb starts leaking at the stem. Leaky packing is different from a worn-out washer, which allows water to leak out of the spout.

Be Your Own Fuel Economy Calculator

We're not here to talk about how improving gas mileage or to complain about the difference between EPA mileage estimates and what you really get. We may get to that some other time, but for now you'll have to look elsewhere.

This is a plain old arithmetic class that I'd like to think will help people calculate their own gas mileage (AKA "fuel economy" or "MPG"). It doesn't make sense to say that it costs $50 to fill your car's tank, because 1) the tank capacity isn't the same from vehicle to vehicle and 2) the distance since the last fill-up varies, too. This is - like I said - a tutorial:

Lay Out a Square Corner with Two Tape Measures

Most builders know a simple geometry trick that makes it dirt simple to lay out a square corner for your patio, deck or other structure. All you need is a couple of tape measures. It’s all because of the Pythagorean Theorem and the 3-4-5 right triangle.

Skip the Explanation and go straight to the How to ==>

If you happened to sleep through class that day (or ditched school instead) you may not remember who Pythagoras was or what his “theorem” means to you. So let me refresh that vague memory.

The Pythagorean Theorem says that the sum of the squares on the sides of a right triangle are equal to the square of the hypotenuse.

Easy Method to Find the Center of a Circle

Circles have an unusual geometry: they are the most regular, most symmetrical shape possible; but because there are no corners, finding one's center is harder than you might expect. To find the precise center of a square or rectangle, you only need to draw lines from the opposite corners: the center is the point at which they cross. The trick to finding a circle's center is creating corners of your own to use. For small circles, all you need is a piece of paper, book or some other object with a right-angle corner. If the circle is larger, a sheet of plywood or some other solid rectangle will do the trick. 

Simple Method to Determine the Radius of an Arch

An arc is a section of the outline, or circumference, of a circle. This common shape appears in many forms, like the arch of a bridge or the top of certain windows. 

If you want to create a copy of an arc, you can either trace it or build one like it from another circle the same size. Tracing is easy, but if you want to build your own circle, you need to find the radius of that circle. If it's complete or nearly complete, it's not hard to find the center, and that will let you measure its radius and diameter. But if the arch is only one small segment of the whole circle, finding those values might seem hopeless. It's easier than it looks, though: all you need is a tape measure and a pencil. Well, maybe a calculator, too...

Replace a Doorknob

Whether you've decided to re-key an entry door by swapping out an exterior door knob or replace interior knobs to freshen the decor, changing the hardware is essentially the same process. There's little difference between the construction of interior and exterior door hardware, although the strength and quality of the material used to build the hardware will vary widely.

How Doorknobs Work

The visible parts of doorknobs are fairly simple. You see a knob or a lever on both sides of the door, a raised disk called the rose between the knob and the surface of the door, and a metal latch protruding from the edge. Turning the knob retracts the latch into a flat latch plate;and  the latch engages with a matching metal strike plate on the door jamb when the door is closed. If the knob includes a lock, there is a keyhole on the outside and some form of lever on the inside to engage the lock.


The parts inside the doorknob have much more variety. Consumer-grade exterior locks only differ from interior locking knobs by being weatherproof and somewhat more sturdy. Security of these locks should be enhanced by installing a deadbolt. Cylinder locks provide additional security but are more difficult to install and replace. Regardless of the style, the working parts mount inside a large hole with a standard diameter of 2-1/8” that's bored through the door, while the latch is connected through a long hole drilled into the space from the door's edge. The inner and outer knobs connect with a spindle through the middle and a pair of screws. When you turn either knob, the spindle rotates and retracts the latch. When you release the handle, springs return the latch to its extended position.

Removing the Old Knob

1) Remove the screws holding the knobs together. For locking knobs, you may have to rotate the rose on the inside of the door, lining up holes in the rose with the screw heads.
2) When the screws are completely out, remove the knobs and roses on both sides. This will expose the interior workings.
3) Remove the screws from the latch plate on the door's edge, pull the latch bolt out through the edge. Fit the parts together and set aside to donate to an architectural salvage shop or recycling center for building materials.

Installing the New Knob

4) The distance from the edge of the door to the center of the hole is called the backset. Two different backset distances are common: 2-⅛ and 2-¾ inches. The new knob must have the same as the old knob to keep the latch bolt centered in the space. Many knobs in stores are adjustable to fit either backset. Consult the packaging for instructions to adjust  the backset if needed.
5) Push the new latch assembly through the hole in the side of the door with the curved or angled face of the bolt facing in the direction the door swings when closing. The new latch plate will likely be the same size as the old one, but if it's larger, enlarge the mortise with a wood chisel. TIP: Most of the time the screw holes will line up, but it helps to “tighten” the old holes by pushing a broken wood match or toothpick into each hole, coated with wood glue.
6) Allow the glue to dry before screwing the latch plate into the side of the door. Swing the door until nearly closed to ensure that the latch lines up with the strike plate and is at the right orientation.
7) One knob is usually fixed to a spindle that goes through the hole in the door and a matching hole in the latch. The knob with exposed screw holes always goes on the lock side, usually the inside Thread the spindle through the latch bolt, then press the rose against the face of the door. If you can still see the hole through the door, adjust the backset distance and repeat. The knob must be centered for the rose to completely cover the hole.
8) Place the second knob on the spindle and verify that the knobs are correctly oriented: a lock knob or lever belongs on the interior, while a keyhole or lock release hole belongs on the outside. The installation convention is to have the widest part of the keyhole up. Compare to the directions that came with the new knob, as needed.
9) Test the knob and lock function before you close the the door. If the new latch will engage the strike plate already installed on the jamb and the finish is correct, you can leave it in place. If the old strike plate has a different finish or is damaged or if the new latch doesn't engage, replace the strike plate. The mortise for the strike plate may need reshaping, as above. Old screw holes that will be re-used or are too close to new screw holes are best plugged with wood and glue as above.
10) Verify that the door closes smoothly and locking knobs lock securely.

NOTE:  Replacing mortise locks (flat boxes fitted into the edge of the door; rare except in old buildings) or cylinder locks requires different techniques. Mortise locks especially may exceed the kills of a novice.

How to Replace a Timex Watch Battery Yourself

Dead watch? Install a new battery yourself.

You used to be able to walk into the local discount department store and buy a replacement battery for an inexpensive wristwatch like a Timex Indiglo or Timex Expedition, and the person at the counter would replace it for you; free. You don't get that service any more - now you have to go to a real jeweler (and suffer their disdain over not having a Tag Heuer) or a kiosk in the mall where they'll sell you a battery and install it for about the same price you paid for the watch in the first place.

You could, of course, replace it yourself... like I do. Timex stamps the battery size on the back of the case, and you can buy these batteries at your local grocery. They're usually CR2025 or CR2032 button-type batteries. Once you have a new battery, you're set.

What You'll Need

• Replacement battery: verify the battery size/style printed on the back of the watch case.
• Size 0 Phillips-head screwdriver (you can find one in a set of jeweler's screwdrivers for a couple of dollars)
• Sheet of plain white paper

Emergency Plumbing Repairs in Pipes

According to Murphy's Law, plumbing emergencies only occur on holidays, weekends, or in the middle of the night. A pipe that suddenly springs a leak can create a royal mess in your kitchen, bath or basement. Fortunately Mr. or Ms. Average Homeowner can make short-term repairs with things you can find around the house. One of these fixes can keep you dry until your plumber handyman comes to make permanent repairs, though you can't count on them to last for the long term.

What You'll Need

• Pencil
• Duct tape or wide plastic tape
• Bicycle inner tube or garden hose
• Utility knife or scissors
• 3 hose clamps or stiff wire
• Screwdriver or pliers

How Many Days Old Are You?

Ever wonder how many days you've been on this earth? It's easy to calculate a child's age in days, but the older you get the tougher the math gets. Not only that, after a few leap years everything just gets out of whack. There is a super-simple way to do it, though, that doesn't involve pulling out a calculator. You just use a spreadsheet.

You can either use Microsoft Excel® or, if you don't have that software handy, make a spreadsheet in Google Documents.

Install Your Own Storm Door

A storm door at your home's entrance will add curb appeal and improve weatherproofing. A door cuts down on drafts and heat loss during winter, and offers ventilation when the weather's more pleasant. Installing a storm door can also protect the finish of expensive wooden entrance doors, plus a door with its own lock means added security.

Installing a new storm door yourself can save a hundred dollars or so, and it's a task that fits the skill set of most weekend DIYers. The job requires tools you'll find in most basic tool kits and, whether the house dates to 1905 or 2005, the steps are the same. Door manufacturers make the job easier for a consumer by including detailed instructions. Many companies also provide on-line forums, toll-free advice or both.

Tools You'll Need • Measuring tape • Drill and drill bits • Carpenter’s (spirit) level • Screwdrivers • Stepladder • Putty knife or scraper (optional) • Caulk and caulking gun (optional)

Install Hidden Hinges in Cabinets and Furniture

Hinges for cabinets and other casework come in a wide variety of designs and finishes. The correct hinges will complement the design and finish of your cabinets by carefully balancing form with function. A lot of modern cabinet designs, however, look their best without visible hinges on the surface. These designs often use “European” hinges, the kind that are out of sight when the doors are closed. Installing ordinary leaf hinges on the surface of the door and frame requires little more than a drill and a screwdriver. With hidden hinges, however, the working parts must be inset into the rear of the door frame. To install this type of hinge you'll need different tools and different techniques.

What You'll Need

A set of hinges (template usually included)
Tape measure
Pencil
Power drill or drill press
Forstner bit (may be included with hinge set)
Drill bit